Engagement Ring Shopping
The Four C's (and one S) of Diamonds♦ Carat:
This is the weight of the stone. One carat is 200 milligrams. One carat has 100 points, so a 31 point stone is approximately 1/3 carat. A single one-carat diamond is worth more than two half-carat diamonds because larger individual stones are rarer.
Carat is for stones. Karat is for gold.
♦ Color:
Diamonds may be any color, but most are near-white.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed a color scale that reputable jewelers use to rate the amount of yellow in a diamond. The grades range from D to Z, with D, E, and F indicating that the stone is colorless. If you plan to purchase a platinum or white gold setting, try to buy a diamond that is grade D, E, or F. With a gold setting, a little more yellow in the stone won't be noticed, so you can purchase a stone with a grade between G and K.
♦ Clarity:
The GIA has also developed a quality scale that is used to grade diamonds. Stones should be viewed under a 10X microscope because that is the magnification used in the official grading process. Flaws are referred to as inclusions.
FL Flawless. Very rare and expensive.
IF Internally flawless. Surface flaws can possibly be removed with polishing.
VVS1 and VVS2 Very, very slightly included. An expert can find the flaws with a 10X microscope, but an untrained individual likely cannot.
VS1 and VS2Very slightly included. With a little assistance, an untrained individual should be able to find the flaws under a 10X microscope.
SI1 and SI2 Slightly imperfect. Flaws are visible with a 10X microscope, but cannot be seen with the naked eye.
I1 to I3 Imperfect. Flaws are visible without a microscope.
There is a process called "clarity-enhancement," which can improve the clarity of a stone, but the process weakens the stone.
If you need to save money, sacrifice clarity rather than cut or size. It is difficult to distinguish a VVS2 from an SI1 without a microscope.
♦ Cut:
Some people use the term cut to refer to the shape of the stone, but that is misleading.
You want a stone that is properly proportioned, to be the most reflective it can be. The GIA certificate contains statistics concerning the cut. The table percentage and depth percentage are listed. A good-sized table on a round stone will be 53-64%. This means that the flat surface on top of the stone is slightly more than half the entire width of the stone. A good range for the depth percentage is 58-64%. The certificate will also list a grade: excellent, very good, good, fair, or poor.
Not all stones are created equal. The way the stone is cut will determine its brilliance.
♦ Shape:
Marquise, oval and pear-shaped stones tend to look larger than an equal-weight round or emerald-cut stone, but round stones have more brilliance.
The Setting
Of course you need something to hold the diamond.The metal choice is purely personal taste. Gold and platinum are both perfectly acceptable options.
24-karat gold is pure, and is too soft to be used in jewelry. 14-karat gold is common. It is 58.3% gold, likely mixed with zinc, copper or nickel.
Platinum is harder than gold and will never tarnish. It is also quite a bit more expensive than gold. A three-digit number indicates the purity of the metal. "950 platinum" means that the metal is 95% platinum, and 5% other metals, typically iridium or palladium.
Titanium is a beautiful, hypo-allergenic choice. It's color is similar to silver or white gold. Titanium is considerably stronger than other metals, and this has sparked a rumor that it cannot be removed in the case of injury. This problem only exists in aerospace-grade metal, which is not likely to be found in jewelry. Emergency units carry metal cutters, and they will be able to free your hand if injured.
You also need to decide whether to have four or six prongs holding your stone. Six prongs will hold the stone more securely, but will hide more of it. If you will be diligent in removing your rings before working with your hands, you should be safe having only four prongs.
Purchasing
When purchasing, make the sale contingent upon an independent appraisal. Call your homeowner's or renter's insurance agent and tell them you need to have your engagement ring appraised, and ask where they recommend you have it done. Your insurance company may require that you purchase a rider (separate policy) to cover the ring against theft or loss.Buy your ring with a credit card. If there is any problem you can dispute the payment and your credit card company will help to resolve the issue. All legitimate jewelers accept credit cards.
Some stores may offer a warranty that will replace your stone if it falls out of the setting. Read the fine print carefully, as you may be responsible for bringing the ring to the store for routine "check-ups." If the warranty only covers the stones and not the setting, you will have to pay for any repairs required to keep the stones secure.
